Tag Archives: ArtEZ

INTERVIEW WITH FASHION DESIGNER AZIZ BEKKAOUI

Click HERE for Photo Preview As He Preps for Amsterdam Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2015
Photographer: Giusy de Ceglia – http://www.giusydeceglia.com/
Model: Jolie Van Dijk

The most exciting part of being a designer is… “Creating your own world, your wildest dreams – and realizing that you have a keen esthetic eye and talent that can surprise myself, my peers, friends and followers by creating.”

Visit Aziz Bekkaoui’s Page HERE

AMSTERDAM - Aziz Bekkaoui working in his atelier before FW - Report for Runway Passport. Copyright: Giusy de Ceglia

YOU REALLY DO MERGE FASHION AND ART AS A DESIGNER IN MANY MEDIUMS – HOW DO THE DIFFERENT MEDIUMS COMPLIMENT EACH OTHER
BOTH IN TERMS OF YOUR CREATIVITY AND IN TERMS OF THE END RESULT?

The mediums may be different, the inspiration and message are the same. I use design and fashion in my performance art pieces, and get inspired by daily life for my couture collections. I show my collections through strong and focussed performance pieces, and so the circle is round.

 

WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION? AND HOW DO YOU STAY MOTIVATED SEASON AFTER SEASON?

Cities/street life used to be my main inspiration, but the city centers in the Western World like New York, Paris and Amsterdam are becoming the new suburbia, flooded by tourists and obsessed by consuming. I live in Amsterdam’s city center and still love parts of NYC, but I diversified my sources of inspiration: on line, street life in new centers like Beirut, Tanger and Istanbul, and in my own mind. The latter is an infinite source – that will only stop at the end of my days. Still much more to come, I live quite healthily……..

 

WHAT IS THE MOST EXCITING PART OF BEING A DESIGNER?

Creating your own world, your wildest dreams – and realizing that you have a keen esthetic eye and talent that can surprise myself, my peers, friends and followers by creating.

 

WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE YOU EVER MADE?

It was a chair on my 6th birthday. My parents loved it.

 

WHAT PIECE HAVE YOU DESIGNED THAT YOU ARE MOST PROUD OF?

An impossible question – hence easy to answer because I just picked one of my many favorites, for an artist I love: the big dress I created for Marina Abramovic’s amazing performance at the MOMA in NYC.

 

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BRING TOGETHER DIFFERENT ART FORMS?

Your can better ask: what forced you to do it! I think in images, in designs, in colors, in patterns. It’s impossible not to mix those millions of impressions I have accumulated in my head throughout my career.

 

HOW HAVE YOU GROWN AS A DESIGNER SINCE YOU FIRST STARTED?

Absolutely still growing each day. My best work is yet to come.

 

WHEN DID YOU REALIZE YOU WANTED TO BE A DESIGNER?

Always knew that this was my calling – so it was not a real choice. But on the Arnhem Art School (ARTEZ) I started to realize I had some talent – which can be helpful when one wants to become a designer.

 

WHO INSPIRES YOU THE MOST?

Marcel Duchamp, who by giving us a new kind of art liberated all contemporary creators. This new art not only triggered the eyes, but the imagination and the intellect as well.

 

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE FOR STARTING OUT DESIGNERS?

Be honest, work hard and don’t get too excited about fame, fashion, glitter and glamour. If you’re a true designer this recipe will lead to a fulfilling career.

 

WHAT IS THE MOST EXCITING PART OF FASHION WEEK? AND WHAT’S THE MOST STRESSFUL?

The most exciting part: to see, right after the show, on the faces of the people I admire the reflection or their thoughts, their questions, their love.

The most stressful: how to capitalize on my new designs, in order to create the next collection. People with good business propositions to the front of the line please.

 

WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO RELAX/CELEBRATE AFTER THE SHOW?

My good friend Gert will cook a Dutch – Moroccan meal for me and my team: Boerenkool (Kale) with mashed potatoes and Moroccan Merquez sausages. Mmmmmmmmmmmm.Yoga also helps, but Boerenkool/Merguez helps better.

The Early Days of Iris Van Herpen

Back in 2011 Runway Passport interviewed Iris Van Herpen for our blog. She is still one of our number one inspirations, had the foresight to use 3D printed materials in 2011, create dresses made of “water”-esque materials and is on her way to becoming a fashion icon of our generation.

Interviewer: Maddie Raedts
Photographer: Giusy de Ceglia – http://www.giusydeceglia.com/

Iris van Herpen Show - End of Show 2
CAN YOU TELL US SOMETHING ABOUT YOUR STUDIES AND INTERNSHIPS?

I studied for four years at the Artez Art Academy for Fashion in the Netherlands. That was partly interesting and partly boring as well. I really needed a second life next to academy life, the city and the people.

I created an evening and weekend life of crazy distraction to find inspiration, because it was not the environment and people for me to find inspiration at all. It all felt boring and too goody goody for me at that time. So physically I was there but I wasn’t fully present in my mind. However, I learned a lot there both technically and about myself. During my studies I did an internship at Alexander McQueen which was a good experience as well.
I learned a lot about working with special materials, craftmanship, researching a concept,etc. After that I did an internship at Claudy Jongstra. There I also learned a lot about how to work with other materials than usually used in fashion and about to think bigger than fashion because she mainly works within architecture now. She started in fashion, then she did a lot for films and now she is primarily in the field of art, architecture and interior.

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DID YOU ALWAYS HAVE THE DREAM TO BECOME A DESIGNER?

No, not consciously at least. When I was little I wanted to become a dancer for a long time.

 

YOU DID AN INTERNSHIP AT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. WHAT WAS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT THERE? WHAT DID YOU LEARN THE MOST FROM IT?

The moment of the show, I was so lucky that I could watch the show in Paris.To see the pieces down the runway after I worked so hard on them was magical. Like they became real…came to life. I learned a lot about materials, about research and about craftmanship. And I learned that it is really hard work to create something unique.

Iris van Herpen Show 12

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR WAY OF DESIGNING?

Within my design process the normal rules don´t apply. My way of designing changes from time to time. I started moulaging (Moulage is a fashion design technique where the designer fits or molds the fabric directly on the model or dressmaker dummy.) a lot after experimenting, then i drew my designs sometimes as well. Sometimes I draw a part of it, and part of it i moulage. Sometimes I draw 3D around the mannequins, sometimes I design on the computer, sometimes it is just in my head and I make a pattern of it. But in the end all different ways of designing lead to the same essence:  my reciprocity between craftsmanship and innovation in technique and materials to express the character of a unique woman. And I design to extend the shape of the feminine body in detail. So my way of designing changes from time to time, but my core or essence stays the same.

Iris van Herpen Show 5

DO YOU THINK YOU CREATE MORE FASHION OR MORE ART? WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE COMBINATION AND TRANSITION OF FASHION AND ART? IN WHICH WAY(S) IS IT THE SAME AND IN WHICH WAY OTHERWISE?

I see my work as much fashion as I see it as art. Part of the fashion world is a form of art. The biggest part of fashion is the commercial side, it is about mass production which makes fashion became part of our throw away civilization. But the essence of fashion is much, much more and the meaning of it is different for everybody (same as art). For me fashion is about channeling the philosophical debate through my creative process itself – as if expressing the journey and the search for answers with conceptual pieces of fashion which are constantly chasing conclusions that will never be  caught. To me that is the whole point. And the notion of art is as wide and vague as the notion of fashion in the broadest sense of the word. Art and fashion are both a personal related expression of the time, mind and experience.

I think between the creation process of art and fashion there is not that big of a difference for the creators. Most fashion designers are really related to art in many ways. But the difference is bigger in the experience of the product. When somebody wears a jacket, they will hardly ever realize the creation process, inspiration and concept behind it. That is subservient to its purpose. With art the purpose is more about the creation and the concept. So the biggest difference lies in the purpose and therefore the experience of it as being art or not.

The biggest parallel between fashion and art is the creation part of it; the creator´s inspiration translated into a concept and re-evaluating the way we look at things.

Iris van Herpen Show 9

DO YOU THINK YOU’LL EVER MAKE TRULY COMMERCIAL PIECES?

That depends on what you think is truly commercial. In my eyes yes, but definitely within my own way and with my own personality.

 

YOUR CONCEPTS ALWAYS SEEM TO GO ABOUT AN UNTOUCHABLE SUBJECT MADE VISIBLE. WHERE DO YOU FIND YOUR INSPIRATION?

I find my inspiration everywhere and anywhere. It is never that I see something around me and that suddenly there is a new dress in my head. My inspiration is my life and the lives around me, it’s about worlds in my head. They are untouchable because it is mostly about another way of experiencing and seeing things. I can amaze myself about really anything.

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THE MATERIALS IN YOUR DESIGNS ARE VERY INNOVATIVE AND INSPIRING. I’M GUESSING YOUR NOT GOING TO THE TEXTILE FAIR. WHERE DO YOU FIND YOUR MATERIALS TO WORK WITH? AND HOW DO YOU GET YOURSELF ABLE TO WORK WITH NEW AND STRANGE MATERIALS WHICH ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO BE FOR CLOTHING?

I find the right material through a good research. Going through the internet, through my contacts, through the library etc. Nowadays there are no limitations in physical borders, so I get my materials from all over the world. Working with new materials is a matter of doing. If I think too much about it, I get stuck. I just have to do, experiment and not be afraid. And then I find out what works and what does not.
If it is really difficult or when it seems impossible I ask artists or other professionals for advice or help.
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YOU HAVE WORKED WITH SOME 3D PRINTED MATERIALS. ARE YOU PLANNING TO GO ON WITH THIS INNOVATIVE MANNERS OF WORK?

Yes, I am amazed and even more inspired now about the possibilities of this technique after working with it . The best thing about the future are all the parts that we don’t know and I definitely want to explore as much as possible.

 

WHAT IS YOUR GOAL FOR THE FUTURE?

To keep on doing what i do now, on a higher level.\

 

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT DUTCH FASHION VS FASHION IN THE REST OF THE WORLD? WHAT MAKES IT STAND OUT – NEGATIVES AND POSITIVES?

Conceptually it is very strong and unique, technically it is a bit old fashioned, safe.

 

SO FAR NY, LONDON, PARIS AND MILAN HAVE BEEN SO DOMINANT AS FAR AS FASHION WEEKS GO- DO YOU THINK THAT IS CHANGING?

Not in the short term, but the economic centers of the world are shifting so it is possible that in the long term, for example the Asian Fashion Weeks end up taking over in the end.

Iris van Herpen Show 3

ArtEZ Fashion School Graduation Fashion Show

ArtEZ  Graduation Fashion Show at the Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011 – Stars To Look Out For.

Photographer Giusy de Ceglia –  http://www.giusydeceglia.com/
(see bottom of article for full photos)

ARNHEM - ArtEZ Graduation Fashion Show.

Every year in the up and coming Dutch fashion city Arnhem, the rising stars of the next generation of young fashion designers show their graduation pieces in ArtEZ  Graduation Fashion Show at the Arnhem Mode Biennale.  ArtEz seems to beThe Central St Martins of the Netherlands in terms of creativity, giving the graduates of the iconic London Alma Mater a run for their money in terms of new talent.  While fashion weeks  are popping up all over the world, some of the best and most inspirational  new talents are being discovered at the schools. Known as one of the most famous fashion schools in Holland,  the yearly ArtEZ  Graduation Fashion Show at the Arnhem Mode Biennale is always sold out because so many of the greatest and currently famous Dutch designers have studied here.

Their students  are now beginning to attract some attention in the global fashion world.

Here are some highlights of a selection of the fashion art we witnessed during ArtEZ  Graduation Fashion Show at the Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011.  Stay tuned for the full collections in the upcoming relaunch of Runway Passport and further coverage of these new designers we are so excited about.

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List of Participating Fashion Designers:
Romy Kokke

Zonia van Uden

Linda de Jong

Sophie Kerth

Anne Bosman

Tom Nijhuis

Bo van den Heuvel

Annemarie Keizers

Anne Mertens

Mattia Akkermans

Laura de Weijer

Bibiche Osseman

Fira Rietveld

Merel Schenkeveld

Jarwo Gibson

Cleome Clements

Toon Paternotte

Magnus Dekker

William Fan

Simon Visser

Marius op ‘t Eynde

Sanne Schepers