When Sadaks’ models lined up for the final walk to the song Yass Bish by Soulja Boy feat. Nicki Minaj, it became certain: baggy jeans, hoodie sweaters and golden necklaces belong to the past. As of now, we want to see all rappers and bad boys in Sadak’s reinterpretation of the “Szur”: a traditional robe from Serbia – homeland of Sadak Designer Sasa Kovacevic. For his prints Kovacevic combined ethnic and contemporary symbols to carry tradition into the now.
Rough men in tights and neatly tied footgear tattooed and with nicely dressed hair – Sadak’s collection celebrated contrast and was innovative and unique. “Pride in individuality” was Sadak’s message which he definitely brought onto Berlin’s fashion runway. Yass Bish!
German Version – Zurück in die Zukunft mit Sadak
Spätestens als Sadaks Models zum Song Yass Bish von Soulja Boy feat. Nicki Minaj zum finalen Walk antraten, stand fest: Baggy Jeans, Sweatshirt-Hoodie und Goldketten haben ausgedient. Wir wollen Hip Hop-Jungs und Bad Boys ab sofort in Sadaks Neuinterpretation des „Szurs“ sehen: Ein traditionelles Gewand aus Serbien – der Heimat des Designers hinter Sadak, Sasa Kovacevic. In seinen Prints verquickt Sadak ethnische mit zeitgenössischen Symbolen, so wie Pflanzen-Ornamente mit dem Eingabefeld einer Suchmaschine, und befördert so Tradition ins Jetzt.
Raue Männer in Strumpfhosen und ordentlich geschnürtem Schuhwerk, tätowiert und fein frisiert – Sadaks Kollektion feiert Kontraste, ist innovativ und einzigartig. „Pride in individuality – Stolz in Individualität“ ist Sadaks Botschaft und die hat er in Berlin zweifellos auf die Modebühne gebracht. Yass, Bish!
The sisters Olivia and Rebecca live, work and laugh in Düsseldorf, Germany.
Olivia isn’t only a full-time student but also a full-time esthete. Learning about the human psychology and getting inspired by past and current philosophers during most of her week, she spends the rest of her time surrounded by fashion: As a shop assistant, she wraps her customers in Scandinavian garments. She loves to experiment with clothing and already used her styling skills to perfect the model’s look during photo productions. On the weekends the hunt for beauty and uniqueness takes place on another battlefield: The flea market. If you really want to take home something special, you definitely should join Olivia when shopping here. The next step on her mission: Finding interesting and exciting designers. Her partner in-crime: Her sister Rebecca. <br><br>
After eight years of work in fashion retail and studying communications, Rebecca now works as a PR professional where she helps lifestyle brands to appear on the customers’ radar. Getting to know brands and detecting what’s making them incomparable is part of her daily work. Part of her daily relaxation routine is taking her knitting needle or crochet hook and doing some handcrafting – There aren’t really enough winters to wear the amount of the self-made headbands piling up on her desk.
Interview By Rebecca Acar
Johannes Jorge Hölkeskamp is a certified fashion designer, lives in Düsseldorf and finds inspiration in everything that surrounds him. After finishing his studies in 2013, he founded his own label Holstenwall and now creates high-quality designs for fashion-conscious women and men.
In our interview, Johannes Jorge tells us which part of the design process is his favorite, which celebrities he’d like to see in his clothes and what’s behind his first gown.
CAN YOU TELL US WHEN YOU FIRST REALIZED THAT YOU WANTED TO BECOME A DESIGNER?
I already felt the passion for design inside of me when I was a little child: My mother did a lot of handcraft. I looked over her shoulder and it really fascinated me a lot.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR DEVELOPMENT AND YOUR PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND.
In August 2013 I finished my studies and now am an official fashion designer! I interned at Marion Strehlow in Düsseldorf. Earlier, before I started my studies, I worked for the costume department for movie productions and did some smaller jobs as a stylist for several photographers.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT DESIGN AND WHERE DO YOU SEE CHALLENGES?
For me, designing clothing is something very special. You experience an exciting process – from an idea until the final and finished design. The greatest moment is the one when someone gives my design life by wearing it and feeling comfortable in it. Can you imagine anything more beautiful?
WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR THE COLLECTION “AGE OF KNOWLEDGE” WHICH YOU ALSO SHOW ON RUNWAY PASSPORT?
On Runway Passport you’ll find a small selection of “Age of
Knowledge” which is my Graduate Collection.
The current collection is a dialogue with societies categorizations and the process of emotional evolvement – shown in a graphic, artfully constructed, elegant fit. The collection is effected by the emotional revolution that wants to break through classic moral concepts – but only in fragments and in a decelerated process.
The contemporary reference of the classic cut gets broken by new options for materials. They confront the creative sensibility of the wearer with his usual habits of wearing fashion. Everything is inspired by author Aldous Huxley’s words: “The real revolutionary revolution can’t be caused in the outer world, but only in the people’s souls and bodies.”
FOR WHOM DO YOU DESIGN YOUR CLOTHES?
I picture my designs on women and men who have both feet firmly on the ground, following a goal. At the same time, I don’t want to draw the line too strictly as the outfits can be worn by every fashion-conscious woman or man.
IS THERE A PERSON YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE ONE OF YOUR DESIGNS?
Zooey Deschanel and Kate Moss are two people that pop up in my mind spontaneously. I would be speechless if one of them would ever wear one of my designs.
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FROM IN GENERAL?
I am inspired by my environment. This can be everything I hear and see as well as music and art. Besides this, my mood and my emotions always play a big role as well.
IS THERE A DESIGNER WHO REALLY IMPRESSES YOU OR SOMEONE YOU ADMIRE?
A real master is and always will be Alexander McQueen. But I also adore the simple elegance of Jil Sander. In my eyes, one who really proved her talent is also Victoria Beckham.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE YOU HAVE EVER DESIGNED?
The first piece which can be taken seriously was my first gown during my study time. The topic was “Un Sognio di Venezia” and I designed a long dress with a train and a collar decorated with copper. I will never forget the moment when the dress went down the runway for the first time. So many emotions came out!
IF YOU TAKE A LOOK AT YOUR PATH AS DESIGNER: HOW DID YOU DEVELOP?
Of course, I hope that the process of development never ends. Nevertheless, I can say that it was during my studies when I found my design language. The one which I want to present myself with and grow with.
WHICH OF YOUR DESIGNS ARE YOU THE MOST PROUD OF?
Every piece. Because in every single design, there is also a piece of me.
IS THERE ANYTHING A DESIGN MUST FULFILL FOR YOU? WHEN ARE YOU SATISFIED WITH A PIECE?
Every design should be well manufactured, wearable and of high quality – especially in times of mass consumption where the quality suffers a lot. I am completely happy with a piece when the person wearing it brings it to life with a smile and when this person shows himself and his personality through it.
ART AND DESIGN – TWO THAT BELONG TOGETHER OR THE COMPLETE OPPOSITE OF EACH OTHER?
For me one single flow of inspiration.
IS THERE A COUNTRY OR A CITY THAT FASCINATES YOU, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE DESIGN SCENE?
I think the Scandinavian countries are really great when it comes to realize style, elegance and personality in their designs. I like it a lot.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE MATERIAL?
I like playing with leather and floaty materials such as silk.
AT WHAT TIME OF DAY YOU LIKE TO WORK THE MOST?
I prefer the night. Everyone is sleeping. Only me, the music and my designs are awake.
IN WHICH SITUATIONS DO YOU FEEL THE MOST CREATIVE?
It is a twenty-four-seven passion – the creative process is always there and this is what I love.
WHAT ROLE DO EACH OF YOU PLAY WITHIN THE COMPANY AND HOW TO YOU INSPIRE/WORK WITH EACH OTHER?
Well, Anja is mostly responsible for design and production and I, Sandra, look after sales and marketing as well as brand strategy. But in reality we work closely together throughout the process of creating the collection. Staring with a common vision, Anja begins physically creating the collections and then she’ll come back to me to get my feedback. Once a sample is ready we work together on perfecting the details. We tend to share the same mind-set, so if Anja for some reason has a block during her part of the design process, I’ll take over where she left off and vice versa. We are twins, so we do everything together. When Anja was studying fashion design, I was so close to her that I became part of it as well. Maybe without each other the results would be a little less powerful since we are actually working with double energy:-) and I honestly don’t think UMASAN would have grow as fast as it has without this twin power – like YING&YANG : )
WHAT MADE THE TWO OF YOU WANT TO BECOME DESIGNERS?
We were 16 and we just started creating our own clothes … and once we started we couldn’t stop. It became our dream, independently of each other, to study fashion design and become designers
WHAT IS UMASAN ABOUT? WHAT MAKES IT STAND OUT?
Our demand, and at the same time our motivation, was to create a line that transcends the production of clothing and establishment of a fashion brand. Innovation in the fashion industry also aims to correct luxury mistakes, to redefine collective values, and to enhance individual values. This was reason enough for us to launch Umasan in 2010. We wanted to bring avant-garde “feel-good” fashion with innovative fabrics and using a sophisticated Japanese cutting technique to the fore. I feel like we’re creating a brave new world combining high end taste with the latest innovation regarding the longevity of planet earth and its inhabitants. We looked at the complete concept of sustainability, and since we are both vegan, it was important to include this aspect as well. We use exclusive vegan fabrics because we believe in animal rights and the well-being of the environment and we use “vegan” as a primary descriptor of our line to put explicit focus on these two elements.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION FOR THE MOST RECENT COLLECTION?
ABOUT THE COLLECTION SS15: Character (greek: kharakter, a making instrument) was originally a distinctive mark impressed, engraved or otherwise formed. The word later generally came to mean an enduring imprint or the peculiar, persistent nature of something, evident in all its individual expressions and impressions, and distinguishing it from everything else. But above all the word is used as a description of the peculiarity of a willing being, as becomes apparent in its actions. UMASAN SS 2015 Coll. searches and strengthens the relationship of the individual to his inner world, and dedicated to her, where we ourselves refuse any form of dogmatism.
HOW HAVE YOU GROWN SINCE YOUR FIRST COLLECTION?
Well in April 2014 we opened our second Flagship store at Bikini Berlin. We also have about 35 point of sales internationally. We present the collection in NY, LA, Paris as well as Berlin and Milano. …Our next dream is to open a Flagship store internationally either in London, Paris or New York first as those are incredible cities with amazing energy and fashion inspiration.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF BEING A DESIGNER?
I think the best part of being a designer is creating a new collection and presenting the collection on the runway and this allows you to be a communicator, to spread ideas and philosophy.
WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE?
… Price point as well as fast fashion
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FROM IN GENERAL?
We’re inspired by the day-to-day life of down to earth, working people, from various cultures — by artists and travelers who are not simply into a glamorous allure. We look at the human body and how it moves.
With our Collections we want to search and strengthen the relationship of the self and its inner world and its dedication to it, in which it refutes any form of dogmatism. UMASAN is an aesthetic homage to a unpolished and functional design. The creations are sincere and natural, a subtle phenomena. They melt together with the body and harmonize it into its infinite variety. While a general applicable ideal is that a whole perfect symmetrical illustrates perfection, UMASAN Collection shows that the natural asymmetry and irregularities followed the shape of the beauty of nature.
Our goal is to develop a collection, which has always been part of the person who wears it. Clothes which seem somehow familiar, help being yourself.
DO YOU TWO EVER FIGHT OVER WORK AND IF SO WHAT ABOUT?
Actually not seriously… We have a deep trust and understanding, which makes everything easier. We couldn’t imagine working so closely with someone else. Most of the time we do not need to speak to each other since we seem to always be in the same mind knowing the thoughts of the other. It’s scary but true! I think it’s more difficult for our team and partners when the two of us are together. For us it`s the greatest gift to have each other and work together and it’s especially true when we’re having a tough time in the business which makes us realize how much stronger we are together.